From the softness of a chamomile infusion to the creaminess of sweet almond oil, the search for soothing solutions for sensitive skin is deeply rooted in French cosmetic history. Before the rise of modern cosmetology, care was based on craftsmanship, traditional pharmacopoeia and knowledge passed down by monasteries, apothecaries, herbalists and even aristocratic women. The recipes, recorded in manuscripts, medicinal treatises and correspondence, bear witness to an approach based on the observation of nature, the selection of local ingredients and the quest for skin balance.
From monastic gardens to the first pharmacopoeias
From the Middle Ages onwards, French monastic gardens – such as those of Cluny or Saint-Gall – abounded in medicinal plants intended to heal, soothe and strengthen. Monks and nuns, heirs of Greco-Roman knowledge, cultivated chamomile, mallow, rose, wild pansy, lemon balm and other “simples” known for their softening properties. These practices can be found in herbals and treatises such as the “Tacuinum Sanitatis” or in the “Antidotaires”, works listing plants and remedies.
Over the centuries, this knowledge was enriched through translations of Arabic and Byzantine works, refining the understanding of the calming properties of many plant species. Parisian apothecaries, established on the Pont au Change, recommended chamomile or cornflower lotions, honey and rose balms to noble ladies, thus promoting the mastery of natural ingredients to soothe sensitive skin.
The legacy of the Renaissance and the modern era
During the Renaissance, the rise of royal botanical gardens, such as the Royal Garden of Medicinal Plants in Paris (founded in 1635), systematized the study of plants. Treatises on botany and pharmacy, such as those by Nicolas Lémery or Pierre Pomet, described in detail the soothing properties of chamomile, cornflower and lime blossom. Species introduced later, such as witch hazel from America, found their place in the French pharmacopoeia.
In the 17th and 18th centuries, the court of Versailles and aristocratic salons favored floral waters and gentle infusions. Rose water, orange blossom, verbena, lavender and lemon balm were among the most popular ingredients, applied in the form of compresses or lotions to calm redness and irritation. Vegetable oils, such as sweet almond oil, were recommended by apothecaries to nourish and soften the skin without damaging it. The medical and cosmetology treatises of the time attest to this respectful approach, relying on the delicacy of plants to preserve skin balance.
The 19th century: between traditions and the first impulses of modern science
The 19th century saw the development of analytical chemistry and pharmacology, strengthening the understanding of the mechanisms of action of plants. The mucilages of marshmallow and mallow, for example, were identified for their ability to form a protective film on the epidermis, limiting feelings of tightness. Polysaccharides from certain algae or seeds (flax, psyllium) were recognized for their humectant power. Specialized journals, such as the "Journal de Pharmacie et de Chimie", described and validated numerous extracts, confirming what empiricism had already suggested.
Women of the bourgeoisie, just like those of the nobility, continued to use infusions, hydrosols and vegetable oils to preserve the softness of their skin. This period of transition, marked by the coexistence of ancient knowledge and scientific discoveries, anchored the tradition of soothing care in an increasingly enlightened perspective.
Today, towards a return to the sources?
It was especially from the second half of the 20th century that interest in more natural, transparent and environmentally friendly cosmetics became more apparent. Consumers, aware of the limitations of certain overly synthetic formulas, rediscovered the French plant heritage. Hydrosols extracted by slow distillation, cold-pressed vegetable oils and extracts of local plants, cultivated using environmentally friendly agricultural practices, were once again favored.
Clinical studies and modern biotechnology provide valuable confirmation of ancient uses. Plant-based probiotics, for example, support the balance of the skin microbiota, strengthening the skin's barrier against external aggressions. Thus, the alliance of past knowledge and current knowledge consolidates a model of soothing and sustainable cosmetics, in perfect harmony with the sensitivity of the epidermis.
GASPARD COTTANCE: treatments that combine age-old traditions and cutting-edge innovations
Maison GASPARD COTTANCE is part of this heritage, drawing on protective plants and age-old traditions to create formulas that respect delicate skin, based on the achievements of modern science. A few simple steps are enough to reconnect with this ancient comfort, harmony between nature, history and innovation.
